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THE BESPOKE EXPERIENCE

The George Cleverley name goes back to the late 1800s, and since that time the craft of bespoke shoemaking has hardly changed. The following is a brief summary of the steps involved in the making of a fine pair of handmade shoes. There are basically five stages involved: measuring & last making, pattern cutting & clicking, closing, making, and finishing.

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MEASURING & LAST MAKING

The crucial first stage in the making of bespoke shoes at George Cleverley is the measuring of the client's foot we note any client-specific peculiarities and transpose the client’s foot into a wooden model of the foot, called the “last.” Given the importance of these first evaluations, it is highly desirable that the craftsman measuring the foot also makes the last, as he can best understand the requirements for a proper shaping and, ultimately, the perfect fit. Our approach to bespoke shoemaking is simple – we pair the client with the craftsman throughout the entire bespoke process, from start to finish.

Measuring starts by tracing around the foot and noting any characteristics such as corns, fallen arches, prominent bones, etc. Measurements are then taken at the widest part of the foot (i.e. from the big toe joint to the little toe), from the bottom of the instep to the top of the instep, and from the top of the instep to around the bottom of the heel.

With these measurements, the last maker will then use their expertise to begin fashioning the wooden last. Starting out as a block of wood, and gradually shaped to the required form, the craftsman files with a rasp and whittles with a special knife. A fine rasp and sandpaper are then used to complete the model. The key skill for the last maker is his ability to see a shape in his mind's eye and transpose it onto initial wooden block.



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PATTERN CUTTING & CLICKING

The cutter can then take over the next stage, having been supplied with the client-specific measurements and the finished wooden last. The cutter's first job is to make a paper pattern for the style of shoe the client specified in the initial stage of the process. The pattern consists of various pieces: vamp, cap, tongue, quarters. These various pieces of paper pattern are used as guides in cutting the pieces leather which go to make up the upper.

Like the last maker, the cutter is highly skilled who has the ability to design a shoe on paper and convert that design into the beginnings of a bespoke shoe. Cutters must balance client desires and wishes with decades-old experience in order to choose appropriate leathers - judging their weights, pliability, and quality. The cutter is responsible for buying leathers used in the making of bespoke shoes.

 
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CLOSING

The cutter then gives the last, patterns, and cut leather to the closer, who stitches the various pieces together to form the finished uppers. At this stage, the closer will fit linings and the various trimmings such as binding, elastics and pull-on loops, the add detail of broguing and lace holes, etc. that are all part of the unique client order. Having fit the various pieces together, the closer then pulls the finished upper over the last to ensure that it conforms to the required shape.

The upper is then tacked into place. At this stage in the process, a new customer (whose last is being used for the first time), would be invited to attend a preliminary fitting to check that the last and fit are correct. If necessary, any slight adjustments can then be made to the last.

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THE MAKER

When the upper is completed, the bespoke last moves to the maker. The maker adds toe and heel stiffeners and shapes the insole to the bottom of the last, having first soaked the bottom leather to allow for proper shaping specific to the client’s foot and preferences. the final shoe shape is then molded to the bottom of the last and the upper is drawn taut and sewn to the welt (the welt holds the upper to the sole). Tensions must be even throughout the shoe until the upper fits the wooden last like a glove.  Once the upper is stitched into place a new client (whose last is being used for the first time), would be invited to attend a preliminary fitting to check that the last and fit are correct. If necessary, any slight adjustments can then be made to the last.

The maker then stitches the bottom sole to the welt using a precise number of stitches per inch; the appropriate number of stitches depends on the weight of the leather being used, which we have perfected through 90+ years of expertise. Between the inner and outer soles, the maker includes a layer of tarry felt to eliminate squeaks in the shoe. Later, the maker adds the heel, which is built up piece by piece. The bottom of the shoe is then edge-trimmed to provide the finished look (the finish to the bottom of the shoe is very important and demands a high degree of skill to complete). The finish will greatly impact the overall appearance and styling of the shoe.

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THE FINISHER

The maker then gives the completed shoe to the finisher, who draws the last from the shoe, addresses inside the shoe, and fits the seatsocks. Using brushes, cloths, and polish mixed with water, the finisher then transforms the shoe, bringing it up to a deep glossy finish. An experienced finisher can greatly enhance the finish and appearance of a shoe and achieve the final outcome our clients appreciate. Thus, his contribution is just as important as that of his colleagues.

At George Clevereley, Mr. John Carnera and Mr. Adam Law manage the bespoke shoemaking team and all shoes are checked for quality before being passed to the next stage of the process. Since no two craftsmen produce identical work, Mr. Carnera and Mr. Adam Law ensure that each customer's orders are handled by the same craftsman each time, thus providing continuity for the customer and his or her preferences. In this way and using the skills of five craftsmen, a pair of handmade bespoke shoes are completed to the highest standards and to a client’s specifications.

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AFTERCARE & POLISHING

To achieve a professional polish at home, it is important to start with proper shoe care and storage. One must always polish with the shoe trees in and brush shoes thoroughly, removing any dirt or dust. Ideally, polish the day before you plan to enjoy your shoes.

Using a soft cloth pulled over your index finger, apply a small dab of shoe cream to the shoe’s upper. Work in circular motions until evenly applied; the longer the cream stays on, the better the finish will be when completed. The following day, use an applicator brush to work wax polish all over the upper, into the welt and any brogue holes, and over the side walls of the soles. Use a soft brush to remove any excess polish. Then, pull a polishing cloth taught over your finger and lightly touch the wax polish in the tin. Use circular motions again to rub polish all over the shoe. Apply two coats in this manner, then apply a dab of water in the same way. Work through the cloudiness that will appear, revealing a clear shine. Alternate between polish and water. Your touch should become lighter with each layer until you are hardly touching the shoe at all. Always polish thoroughly and work through the cloudiness before starting the next layer. Three or four coats should achieve a very high mirror shine. To maintain such a finish, keep topping up the wax polish with the cloth. Every month to six weeks, apply the cream and start again while storing with shoe trees.